“A high-end, deluxe restaurant is always a risk, but to open one in a recession takes guts, faith, and vision. The decor is toned down to grays, blacks, and silver, with French linens, German porcelain, and Murano glass. The cooking balances every flavor and texture, evident in [Barbara Lynch's] katafi-wrapped langoustines with peas and pickled rhubarb and her roast lamb punched up with black garlic and olives.”